But most travelers won't notice the continuous clash unless inclement weather blocks their only means of passage: sea or air.

At landfall, visitors confront striking optics and undeniable hints of attempts by humans to harness and impose their will over these islands. Sheer, craggy, charcoal-dark cliffs jut out of the sea and mist, releasing flocks of seabirds — massive swarms the size of several football fields. Set against the backdrop of the rocks, they trick the mind into believing they are smaller, proving the age-old quip that appearances can be deceiving. Granite gray-brown rock outcroppings crown sweeping green foothills and valleys, dotted with ancient dark gray stone structures — castles, homes, fences, and breakwaters — standing defiant against the test of time amid a steady cool breeze.

Countryside, Shetland, near Scalloway. Rugged, A-frame housing for a rugged countryside.

From antiquity to modernity

When you set foot on Shetland, you're automatically caught up in a thousand years of Nordic and Scottish history, where generations of fishers and whalers had their lives bound to the sea, defiant against the forces of nature. Communities are close-knit here, a quality plain to see, stemming from generations of hardship in this hauntingly beautiful but remote, arduous terrain.

Most travelers get to these islands by sea, via a ferryboat or cruise ship, arriving at Lerwick, an old port town presenting an optical oddity of the past and the present at once. Founded in the 1600s on the main island of Shetland, called the “mainland” by locals, it's home to about 7,500 inhabitants — one third of the entire human population out of 16 occupied islands.

Lerwick presents a history you can see, touch, feel, and smell, suggesting a past you can imagine. For us, an eastbound cruise liner in July 2016 was our gateway for a day. The port at Lerwick is too small for some cruise ship hookups at the pier. Visitors make their way ashore by tender.

The M.S. Rotterdam, Holland America Line, at Lerwick port, Shetland.

Sign, Lerwick, Shetland

Not hardly. Lerwick means “muddy bay” in Old Norse, and echoes of Nordic speech are prominent in islander conversation to this day. In fact, differing accents between islands can make understanding one another a challenge.

Some island names are Nordic in origin. And prior to the past six centuries of Scottish rule, the Norse ruled Shetland. The King of Norway pledged the islands as security for the dowry in the marriage of his daughter to James III of Scotland. The islands were ceded to Scotland in 1472.

What to See

A walk through Lerwick

Eighteenth century sandstone buildings share the port area with modern industrial steel structures. A walk around town — easy to do since it's small — reinforces first impressions: tough buildings for tough terrain and harsh weather. An hour, two at the most, will leave you with a quick and memorable impression.

The port at Lerwick, Shetland

Lerwick has it all, or at least enough, as it must, to support residents in this remote setting. Most islanders live within 10 miles of the town.

Shetland Fudge Company, Lerwick

There's the Queens Hotel, restaurants, associations and clubs of all sorts, boarding inns, pubs, a library, school, the regional office of Police Scotland, and more organized activities than one can recall, absent a checklist of outdoor, natural exploration, organized tours and cultural events.

Lerwick, narrow passages

Lerwick

Strong railings help pedestrians with steep hills and high winds

The modern roads and vehicles on these islands may impress and surprise you. How is it such quality is here?

The streets of Lerwick

Think: “Oil money”. Shetland is a base for oil company operations in the North Sea. Pipelines crisscross the islands to the chagrin of environmentally minded residents.

Rural Shetland

Yet, there's simplicity. You won't find a single traffic light. Authorities keep track of goings-on with CCTV surveillance systems, a common practice in the United Kingdom.

The former capital: Scalloway

From Lerwick, you can grab a taxi, rental car, or tour bus for a half hour ride passing through peat and heather-covered landscapes to Scalloway, the former capital of the main island.

Scalloway displaying the castle and museum, center right

Scalloway Castle is a central attraction for visitors, built in 1600 by the pompous tyrant Earl Patrick Stewart. Stewart and his equally unpopular son were beheaded for employing forced labor, extortion, and bribes to serve their ends. The castle served as the administrative center for Shetland and as a barracks for Oliver Cromwell's troops during the 1650s. The original tower house has been restored, but the surrounding walls and buildings are gone. A spiral staircase provides access to rooms in the south wing of the castle, part of which is open to visitors.

Scalloway Castle

The Scalloway Museum, next to the castle, houses a special display depicting the village's unique role in World War II. A joint British-Norwegian military operation, code name the “Shetland Bus“, ran allied agents, weapons, radios and other wartime supplies back and forth between Nazi-occupied Norway and Shetland. The islands were both a refuge and training area for Norwegian resistance fighters.

Scalloway museum

The Shetland Bus link between Norway and the village of Scalloway is not surprising. By line-of-sight, Scalloway is closer to Bergen, Norway (228 miles) than it is to Edinburgh, Scotland (260 miles).

Island critters

Shetland Ponies are a famous and popular tourist attraction. We stopped by “Carol's Ponies” in the foothills not far from Scalloway, for a peek at authentic island ponies. Carol or members of her staff happily share their knowledge of these hardy beasts with all comers.

Shetland Ponies, near Scalloway

Wildlife colonies abound on these islands. There are more birds on Shetland than humans. On any day, one can see a riot of color as seabirds obscure island cliffs. It's a setting known to attract avian researchers documenting migratory bird movements.

Shetland offers the best sea mammal watching experience in the United Kingdom. Seals and otters sunbathe on rock outcroppings while porpoises and whales breach near shore, offering the spectacular postcard portraits photographers love.

Otter sign, Shetland

Shetland for the masses

Shetland may be remote, but it is no longer unknown. Fame envelops these isles thanks to the Internet and the award-winning BBC television crime series, Shetland. Native Scot writer Ann Cleeves spent many summers on Shetland, and story lines from her murder-mystery books center on island life. The series premiered in 2013 with Douglas Henshall starring as DI Jimmy Perez, a role he held through seven series before departing in 2022. Ashley Jensen took over the lead as DI Ruth Calder beginning with series eight in 2023, and the show continues to draw strong viewership. Series 10 aired in late 2025, and a further series is confirmed for 2026.

These islands are now a destination of choice for many including expats, writers, wildlife researchers, outdoor and sports enthusiasts, photographers and those just wanting to get away from it all.

Revenue from cruise ship visits alone is a substantial and growing industry. In 2024, Lerwick Port Authority reported a record year handling 134 cruise ships and approximately 138,500 passengers. For the 2026 season, 147 vessel arrivals are expected, with forward bookings already extending to 2030. And oil operations in the North Sea continue.

The outcome: an expansion of infrastructure and services across the isles. Oil workers, tourists, thrill seekers, and explorers all need support services. The islands offer a surprising range of amenities for such a remote location, including golf courses, swimming pools, marinas, boating clubs, community halls, and more than 6,000 archaeological sites spanning thousands of years.

Planning Your Trip

When to go

The best time to visit is midsummer. The flowers are out, thousands of seabirds are flitting around the cliffs, and the islands become a land of the midnight sun. Given the subarctic location of the islands, you can read a newspaper outside at 11 p.m.

How to get there

NorthLink Ferries run overnight car ferries between Aberdeen, Scotland and Lerwick daily, some stopping at Kirkwall, Orkney. The crossing takes 12 to 14.5 hours. Onboard, passengers can book sleeping pods with reclining seats, shared berths, or private cabins. Ferries have a café, bar, lounge, cinema, and Wi-Fi. Check the NorthLink website for current fares, as prices vary seasonally.

Cruise ship lines offer half- and full-day stops at Lerwick port during the season, which typically runs from April through November.

Air

The main airport is at Sumburgh, 25 miles south of Lerwick. Loganair, Scotland's regional airline, operates flights to Aberdeen, Edinburgh, Glasgow, Inverness, and Kirkwall, with seasonal summer service to Bergen, Norway. Direct flights from London Heathrow, Manchester, Belfast City, and Dundee are also available on the Loganair network. You can search for the best fares and flight schedules through our travel partners below.

Where to stay

Hotels, guesthouses, and rental properties can book up fast, especially in midsummer. Reserve as far in advance as you can. You'll find a selection of booking and research options through our recommended travel partners below — a great place to start comparing availability and pricing across the islands.

Need a long-term stay? House rentals called “camping böds” take the form of legacy island houses that entrepreneurs rent out to visitors. Some can house up to 16 people.

Shetland on screen

The BBC crime series Shetland, now in its eleventh year of production, has brought international attention to the islands and their landscapes. Visitors frequently follow in the footsteps of the show's detectives, exploring filming locations across the mainland and outlying islands. The series is available to stream on BBC iPlayer.