At 26 miles (43 km) south of the present-day Greek-Bulgarian border and 29 miles (48 km) north of Thessaloniki, Kilkis occupies a perilous perch as a guardian of the gates of freedom in northern Greece. This quiet, happy little city of 23,000 hasn't always been happy.

The Bulgarians occupied Kilkis and the surrounding area of present-day Greek Macedonia until 1913, when Greek forces reclaimed the city during the Second Balkan War. It took two Balkan Wars (1912–1913) and the outcome of World War I for the Greeks to fully consolidate their hold against multiple invaders. But the Great War, as many still call it, was merely the 20th-century chapter in a conflict stretching back millennia.

Over the last 2,500 years, the Persians, Romans, Byzantines, Slavs, Ottomans, and 20th-century Central and Axis Powers overran, occupied, and controlled the Kilkis region only to face rejection by guardians old and new. The struggle to preserve a distinct Greek cultural identity and control over these embattled historic territories continues to this day. Through it all, the area began and remains Greek, firmly within the historic territories of ancient Greece.

Yet it is the survival of Kilkis and the surrounding towns and villages from unrelenting multicultural pressures that make this area a less obvious but robust choice for the inquisitive traveler seeking a rich cultural potpourri of experiences. Here, you'll discover a history stacked like geological strata, unique twists on gastronomic delights, tremendous outdoor terrain for hikers and climbers, and the contemplative solace of historic sites, museums, and Orthodox sanctuaries that dot the landscape.

Macedonia: The Front Line of a War-Torn History

When King Philip II of Macedon conquered a loosely knit group of tribes called the Paionians circa 355–354 B.C., he could not foresee that his actions would set in motion countless conflicts over Macedonian territory that continue right up to this day. In Philip's time, the major threat to freedom in the ancient Greek world came from the East: the Persian Empire. Philip stood as an early guardian at the gates of Macedonia during the Hellenistic Age (323–31 B.C.).

One thousand years after Philip's rule, Slavs seized control of what had been Hellenistic-era Macedonian lands from the Eastern Roman (Byzantine) Empire. The competing claims over all things Macedonian between Greeks and Slavs have persisted ever since — with complex interplay by the Ottomans and other powers at different points in time.

Heritage claims over Philip, his son Alexander the Great, and Macedonian symbology from the Hellenistic Era by the Former Yugoslav Republic of Macedonia (FYROM) led to an uneasy agreement between Greece and FYROM in 2018. Under the Prespa Agreement, FYROM renamed itself North Macedonia and agreed to refer to statues and symbols from the ancient Greek Macedonian era as honoring “Greek-Macedonian friendship.” In return, Greece dropped its opposition to North Macedonia's entry into the NATO alliance. North Macedonia formally joined NATO on March 27, 2020 — completing the path the Prespa Agreement had opened.

The Orient: A Forgotten Front

Strife in the Balkans stretches well beyond the heritage claims between North Macedonia and Greece. In the trail dust of the Greek War of Independence from the Ottoman Empire, the Greeks found themselves caught up in the vortex of a much larger event at the end of the two Balkan Wars (1912–1913): World War I — arguably the most consequential event of the 20th century.

The Great War destroyed old colonial Europe. The Central Powers — the German, Austro-Hungarian, Ottoman, and Bulgarian empires — fell, transforming the territorial and political landscape of Europe and the Middle East.

Today, many of us recall the war as a conflict on the Western Front. The majestic cemeteries and memorials dotting Belgium, France, and Germany are stark, attention-commanding reminders of the nine million deaths it caused. But the front in the Orient — as the French referred to Greece and the Balkans — is a different story. These territories hold fragments of military history about largely faceless soldiers who fought in a nearly forgotten theater of war.

Kilkis: A Phoenix Out of the Vortex

The Kilkis region today is a land of quiet, peaceful fields and meadows that obscure much of what is knowable about the 600,000 Allied soldiers who fought here during the Great War. Greek, British, Italian, French, and Russian fighters all bled on this soil.

No warfighters from this era survive today. It's difficult to find a living relative of a Greek who can share firsthand anecdotes about what happened here. For the descendants alive now, battles on the Greek Macedonian Front were the realm of their great-grandparents in a distant, largely unknowable series of conflicts. And yet the land holds the memory, if you know where to look.

Cave Exploration: Saint Georgios Hill

The last Ice Age cast the fate of Kilkis in stone. The city stands at the base of Saint Georgios Hill, which at first glance seems unremarkable: there's an 1830s post-Byzantine church at the summit, a café called Lofos nearby, and an open-air theater that hosts musical and theatrical events each summer. Artists from across the world parade the streets during the annual Kilkis International Puppet Festival held each July.

But what Saint Georgios conceals is extraordinary. Deep inside the hill lies a 29,000-year-old cave — the ancient watchtower of this entire region — and one of the most important paleontological sites in Europe. The Spotted Hyena was the first guardian of the gate here in Paleolithic times, sharing the cave with the remains of ancient cattle (Aurochs), Giant Deer, Elk, Fox, Horse, and abundant Pleistocene flora and fauna. Discovered in 1925, the cave presents an unusual “T” shape with two entrances; its counterposing vertical and horizontal shafts create soaring ceilings and expansive spaces where stalactites play in dramatic contrasts of shadow and light. The corridors run 984 feet (300 meters), and the entire cave spans more than 10,763 square feet (1,000 sq m).

Meet the Modern-Day Guardian

Vasileos Makridis is the Caveman of Kilkis. His soul is ancient — his essence elemental. He has spent a lifetime exploring Saint Georgios Cave since boyhood, and is the subject-matter expert that university professors and scientists call when they need answers about this place. He connects, in spirit, with the Spotted Hyena that ruled here 29,000 years ago.

For travelers, here is the key practical detail: this is one of the rare caves in Greece where you may photograph and film freely, without the regulatory constraints of a national government ministry. And if you visit with a group, Makridis himself will serve as your guide — interpreter in tow if needed.

Visit a Monastery

Dozens of picturesque Greek Orthodox churches and religious retreats dot the Kilkis landscape, bearing glorious references to the Apostle Paul and Saint John. Collectively, they represent some of the earliest evidence of Christianity in Europe outside the Levant.

Between Kilkis and Serres you'll find the Monastery of Kritoxori in Sidirocastro, near Lake Kerkini. About 40 nuns run this remarkable place — all holding advanced degrees in different scholarly disciplines. They teach ancient Greek to parishioners and serve as living custodians of Greek cultural history, education, and the 1,800-year link between the Greeks and Christianity. If you speak Greek, an hour here will leave you moved.

Visitor Tips for the Monastery

Dress modestly. Women should cover their shoulders and wear skirts below the knee; men should avoid shorts. Scarves and wraps are often available at the entrance if needed. Photography: ask before photographing inside chapels or of the sisters — it is generally welcomed in common outdoor areas but not always inside. When to visit: mornings are best; many monasteries observe afternoon rest hours. The sisters welcome respectful visitors; a small donation to the monastery is customary and appreciated.

Where to Stay

The Evridiki Hotel is the standout base for exploring the Kilkis region. This ultramodern, mid-size family-run boutique property is one of the finest small hotels we've encountered anywhere in Greece. Owner Fivos Hatzivassiliou — a Ph.D. engineer and retired Hellenic Air Force officer with years of international living behind him — has thought of every detail an international traveler could want. The quality of furnishings, the thoughtful room design, and the personal service all reflect his refined taste. The hotel sits close to Saint Georgios Hill and within walking distance of the city's best restaurants. All nearby war memorials and outdoor attractions — Skra, Doirani, Polykastro, Axioupoli, and beyond — are a quick and easy drive away.

Where to Eat

Varelofrones Steakhouse was at the top of every local's list when we asked where they actually go to eat. And for good reason. Expect farm-to-table, country-fed fresh beef seared precisely as ordered, house salads of remarkable freshness, and a tzatziki (szanziki, in the local rendering) that alone justifies the stop. Simple, straight-from-the-countryside food executed with down-home confidence.